Recladding a house is one of the most transformative — and cost-effective — exterior upgrades a UK homeowner or developer can make. Whether your render has cracked, your brick is tired, your old weatherboard has rotted or you simply want a completely different aesthetic, replacing house cladding with timber gives you a durable, beautiful, thermally superior envelope with 30–50 year lifespans on the best species.
This guide covers everything you need to know to reclad a house in the UK in 2026: step-by-step installation, species selection, cost by house type, planning permission rules, substrate comparison and the profiles our architects specify most often. Whether you're asking "how much does it cost to reclad a house?" or "which timber species should I use?", you'll find the answer here.
How to Reclad a House: 9-Step Process
A professional reclad follows a strict sequence. Skipping steps — particularly the membrane or the ventilated cavity — is the most common cause of moisture failure and premature rot. Here is what a well-managed project looks like on site.
Battens fixed to the wall substrate, ready for cladding boards — a correctly ventilated cavity is the key to longevity.
Survey & Substrate Assessment
A qualified installer surveys the existing wall: checking for damp ingress, structural cracks, failing render and any movement around openings. A damp meter reading over 20% on timber substrates or signs of spalling render means strip-back is required before cladding.
Scaffold & Access
Full perimeter scaffold is erected, or a lift hired for single-elevation work. Scaffold adds £800–£2,000 to a typical semi-detached project and must remain in place until the cladding is complete and any remedial work on reveals and soffits is done.
Strip-Back (Where Required)
Failing render, loose weatherboard or delaminating fibre cement panels are removed back to the masonry or structural frame. Sound render and brick can remain as the substrate — the cladding system goes over the top on a batten system.
Breather Membrane Installation
A vapour-permeable breather membrane (e.g. Wraptite, Pro Clima Solitex) is fixed horizontally to the wall, starting at the base and lapping upwards. This allows moisture vapour to escape from the wall while preventing rain and wind penetration behind the cladding.
Counter-Battens (Vertical)
50×38 mm or 50×50 mm CLS or treated softwood battens are fixed vertically into the masonry or structural frame at 400–600 mm centres. These create the primary fixing point and establish the ventilated cavity. All batten fixings must hit structure.
Horizontal Battens (For Horizontal Cladding)
If installing horizontal boards, a second layer of horizontal battens is fixed to the vertical battens at the board spacing. Vertical cladding can be fixed directly to the vertical counter-battens. This double-batten system creates a fully ventilated cavity and accommodates any wall irregularity.
Corner Trims, Window Reveals & Flashings
Powder-coated aluminium or Accoya timber corner trims are fixed before boards go on. Window sills and reveals are detailed with flashing tape and trim before the cladding reaches the opening. This sequence is critical — cladding first, then reveals, always traps water.
Board Fixing
Cladding boards are fixed with stainless steel nails, secret-fixings or stainless screws depending on the profile. Butt joints are staggered (never aligned on the same batten bay). Boards are maintained at minimum 300 mm above DPC level and 150 mm above any flat roof or decking below.
End Treatment, Oil & Sign-Off
All sawn board ends receive two coats of end-grain sealer or the specified oil. Any boards specified for pre-treatment (larch, spruce) receive their first coat of oil on site. Snagging and inspection completes the job. Most timber cladding installations come with a manufacturer's warranty and a 12-month installer guarantee.
Which Timber Species for Your House Reclad?
The three dominant species for house recladding in 2026 are ThermoWood, Siberian larch and Shou Sugi Ban (charred). Nordic spruce remains the most affordable starter option. Choose based on longevity, maintenance appetite and design intent.
ThermoWood
- 30–50 yr lifespan
- Zero preservatives
- Low maintenance
- Golden-brown to silver
- Stable dimensionally
Siberian Larch
- 20–30+ yr lifespan
- Silvers naturally
- High resin content
- Untreated option
- Architect favourite
Charred SSB
- 30–50 yr lifespan
- Zero maintenance
- Fire-retardant char
- Bold black aesthetic
- Insect & UV resistant
Nordic Spruce
- 10–15 yr lifespan treated
- Budget-friendly
- Needs regular oiling
- Pale natural finish
- Good paint base
Siberian Larch House Cladding
Shadow Gap vs Feather Edge — Choosing the Right Larch Profile
Siberian larch is the UK's most popular natural timber cladding for house recladding projects, specified across everything from rural self-builds to urban contemporary refurbishments. Its high resin content means it weathers slowly and resists rot without chemical preservatives — a key consideration for homeowners wanting a "natural" product with a minimal ecological footprint.
Left untreated, Siberian larch will silver to a consistent, dignified grey over 12–18 months. Many architects and homeowners specifically choose this for the "live" quality of the material — no two elevations silver at exactly the same rate, creating subtle tonal variation that synthetic cladding cannot replicate. If you prefer to retain the warm amber-honey tones, a UV-stabilising oil such as Osmo or Rubio Monocoat applied annually will maintain the colour.
For a recladding project, Siberian larch is typically supplied in shadow gap, tongue-and-groove or open-joint profiles at 90 mm, 120 mm or 145 mm face widths. Popular SKUs include Siberian Larch Shadow Gap 20×146mm, Siberian Larch Double Shadow Gap 24×146mm and Siberian Larch Feather Edge 26×146mm. Shadow gap is the dominant choice for new builds and contemporary refurbs in 2026 — the fine reveal between boards creates a visual rhythm and allows for excellent air movement within the cavity.
Key larch facts for house reclads: density 590 kg/m³; Janka hardness 1,160 lbf; thermal conductivity 0.14 W/m·K; natural durability Class 3–4 (15–25 years untreated in exposed conditions). Available from our UK-held stock in lengths to 5.1 m.
Specifier note: For houses in coastal or high-rainfall locations (Scotland, Wales, SW England), we recommend ThermoWood over larch — the heat treatment takes larch-grade resin resistance to Class 1 durability, the highest available.
ThermoWood House Cladding
Why ThermoWood Is the Definitive Low-Maintenance House Cladding
ThermoWood is heat-treated timber — Scandinavian pine or spruce heated to 185–215°C in a steam environment that permanently alters the wood's cellular structure. The result is a product rated Class 1 durability (the same as teak) with half the moisture movement of untreated timber and complete freedom from preservatives, biocides or chemical treatment.
For house recladding, ThermoWood is the choice when you want long-term performance with minimal intervention. It can be left to silver (slower and more even than larch), or maintained with a light oil once every 2–3 years rather than annually. Its dimensional stability means board gaps open and close far less than untreated timber in UK humidity swings — a major practical advantage for shadow gap installations where movement is visible.
ThermoWood's golden-brown colour is consistent batch-to-batch, unlike natural timber where heartwood/sapwood variation can create tonal differences across an elevation. For larger house projects where colour consistency matters — particularly on prominent street-facing elevations — this predictability is a meaningful advantage.
We stock ThermoWood in all major profiles, including ThermoWood Shadow Gap 19×140mm, ThermoWood Double Shadow Gap 26×142mm and ThermoWood T&G V-Joint 19×140mm. Standard thermal modification uses Thermowood-D grade (Durability Class 1); Thermowood-S grade is the structural variant for load-bearing applications. Our ThermoWood performance guide covers full species data, thermal values and installation specification.
Charred Timber (Shou Sugi Ban) House Cladding — Our Primary Recommendation
Shou Sugi Ban (SSB), also known as yakisugi or charred timber cladding, is the bold choice — and increasingly the specification of choice for premium UK recladding projects in 2026. The charring process carbonises the outer layer of the timber, creating a self-protective, oil-free surface that is naturally resistant to moisture, insects, UV degradation and — critically — fire.
Why SSB Is the Zero-Maintenance Recladding Solution
Once the charring is complete and the boards are fixed, SSB requires no treatment, no oil, no preservative — for decades. The carbonised layer is inherently durable: Class 1 rated, insect-repellent, resistant to mould and with a Euroclass B fire reaction rating in many specifications. For homeowners who want to reclad once and never think about maintenance again, SSB is unmatched.
The aesthetic is dramatic but increasingly mainstream: black or very dark brown vertical boards are now specified on barn conversions, new-builds, garden rooms and house extensions across the UK. The contrast with white window frames, natural larch reveals or light render returns is a signature look in contemporary British residential architecture.
From £60.39/m² — shop our full Shou Sugi Ban range, including SSB Deep Charred Larch, SSB Larch Charred Brushed Black and SSB Charred Stained Black.
Read more: Shou Sugi Ban UK complete guide | Black timber cladding UK: all options compared
Cost to Reclad a House UK 2026 — By House Type
These figures are based on installed costs including materials (cladding, battens, membrane, fixings, trims), labour, scaffold and waste disposal. They exclude VAT. Costs vary significantly by region — London and SE England typically run 15–25% above national average. Our full cladding cost guide includes regional breakdowns and a cost calculator.
| House Type / Scope | Area (m²) | Spruce (budget) | Larch / ThermoWood | Charred SSB |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Semi-detached front only | 40–50 m² | £3,200–£4,500 | £5,000–£9,000 | £6,000–£10,500 |
| Semi-detached full house | 100–130 m² | £8,000–£11,700 | £12,500–£23,400 | £15,000–£27,300 |
| Detached house full | 160–220 m² | £12,800–£19,800 | £20,000–£39,600 | £24,000–£46,200 |
| Extension or single elevation | 20–35 m² | £1,800–£3,150 | £2,800–£6,300 | £3,300–£7,350 |
| Large detached / farmhouse | 260–350 m² | £20,800–£31,500 | £32,500–£63,000 | £39,000–£73,500 |
AI overview answer: The average cost to reclad a house in the UK in 2026 is £80–£180 per m² installed, depending on species, profile and access complexity. A typical three-bedroom semi-detached house recladded on all four elevations (100–130 m²) costs £12,500–£23,400 using ThermoWood or Siberian larch. Charred SSB adds approximately 20% to material cost but eliminates long-term maintenance spend.
⚠ Planning Permission: What You Need to Know
- Permitted development (no application needed): Most house recladding in England falls under permitted development rights, provided the new cladding is of a similar appearance to what is being replaced. You do not need planning permission in most cases.
- Conservation areas: Permitted development rights are restricted or removed. An application for prior approval or full planning consent is needed before any external alteration, including recladding. Contact your LPA before ordering materials.
- Listed buildings: Listed building consent is required for any changes to the exterior — including recladding — regardless of whether the change is reversible. Unauthorised works to a listed building are a criminal offence.
- AONB and National Parks: Stricter rules apply. Permitted development rights may be limited. Check with your local planning authority.
- Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland: Planning regulations differ — particularly in Wales where PDR for cladding has been more heavily curtailed. Always check locally.
Rule of thumb: If in doubt, contact your local planning authority (LPA) for a pre-application enquiry. Our team can also advise on what specification has received consent in your area — contact us for a free consultation. Further reading: Timber cladding planning permission UK guide.
Recladding Over Different Substrates
One of the most common questions we receive is "can I fix timber cladding over my existing wall?" The answer depends on the substrate condition. Here is a quick reference guide for the most common scenarios.
| Existing Substrate | Can Clad Over? | Preparation Required | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Solid or cavity brick | ✅ Yes | Membrane + battens | Most common scenario. Battens plug-fixed into mortar joints or brick. |
| Sound K-rend / monocouche render | ✅ Yes | Membrane + battens through render to masonry | Fixings must hit masonry, not just render. Check render adhesion first. |
| Failing / cracking render | ⚠ Strip back first | Remove render to masonry, then membrane + battens | Loose render will cause batten fixings to fail over time. |
| Old weatherboard / feather-edge | ⚠ Assess first | Remove rotted boards; sound boards can remain | Check behind for damp / rot. Do not trap moisture behind new cladding. |
| Fibre cement cladding | ✅ Usually yes | Membrane + battens | Confirm fixings can reach structure through FC thickness. Asbestos survey if pre-2000 installation. |
| UPVC cladding | ⚠ Usually remove | Strip UPVC first, then standard sequence | UPVC has no structural fixing value. Removal allows proper inspection of wall behind. |
| Insulated render (EWI) | ⚠ Specialist required | Thermal break battens required; EWI engineer assessment | Cladding over EWI requires specialist fixings rated to the insulation depth. Do not use standard plug fixings. |
Which Cladding Profile for a House Reclad?
Profile choice defines the visual character of the recladded elevation. The most common specifications our architects and installers see in 2026 are below.
- Shadow Gap Clean, minimal reveals between boards with no overlap. The dominant contemporary profile. Suits modern house extensions, new builds and urban refurbs. Available in 21×90 mm, 21×120 mm and 21×145 mm. Requires precise board spacing (typically 5–10 mm) — secret-fixings or face-fix.
- T&G Tongue-and-groove boards butt tightly with no visible gap. Traditional, fully enclosed face. Popular for rural and heritage-adjacent projects. Available machined or rough-sawn. Insect mesh at top and bottom cavity entry is essential.
- Feather-Edge Wedge-shaped boards that overlap horizontally — the classic English weatherboard look. Ideal for cottage, period and rural settings. Lower material cost but more labour to install on complex elevations. The overlap prevents direct rain entry — less reliant on membrane quality.
- Rebated Lap A premium version of feather-edge where the boards rebate into each other, giving a sleeker horizontal line than a standard lap and preventing water infiltration at the joint. Popular on Scandinavian-influenced design schemes.
- Open Joint Boards fixed with deliberate wide gaps (20–50 mm) between them. A sculptural, modern profile — dramatic in shadow gap with a dark membrane behind. Not suitable for all climates; requires robust membrane and flashing detailing. Often used alongside charred SSB.
- Shiplap An overlapping profile with a machined rabbet joint that gives a clean horizontal shadow line without the taper of feather-edge. Popular in coastal and New England-influenced design. Lower maintenance than feather-edge due to the improved joint geometry.
Not sure which profile suits your house? Our team offers a free specification consultation — get in touch and we'll send you sample boards in the species and profile that suit your project.
Reclad House UK — Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to reclad a house in the UK in 2026?
Recladding costs in 2026 typically range from £80–£180 per m² installed, including materials, labour, battens, membrane and fixings. A typical semi-detached front elevation (40–50 m²) costs £3,200–£9,000. A full semi-detached house (100–130 m²) costs £8,000–£23,400. Detached houses run £12,000–£36,000+ depending on size and species.
Budget species (Nordic spruce) sit at the lower end; premium charred SSB at the upper end. London and the South East add 15–25% to these figures. Our detailed cost guide includes a full regional breakdown and calculator.
Do I need planning permission to reclad my house in the UK?
In most cases, recladding falls under permitted development rights, meaning no formal planning application is required, provided the new cladding is of a similar appearance to the original and the property is not in a conservation area, AONB or listed building status. If you are in a conservation area or the property is listed, you must apply for planning consent before starting work.
Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland have separate planning regulations — Wales in particular has more restricted PDR for external cladding. Always check with your local planning authority. Read our full timber cladding planning permission guide for detail by region.
Can I clad directly over existing render or brick?
Yes, in most cases. Timber cladding can be fixed over existing render or brick using a batten and counter-batten system. The existing substrate must be structurally sound with no active damp or cracking. A breather membrane is fitted over the substrate, then vertical and horizontal battens create a ventilated cavity before the cladding boards are fixed.
Strip-back is only needed when the substrate is failing — loose render, spalling masonry or evidence of active water ingress behind. Our installers carry out a substrate assessment as the first step on every project.
What is the longest-lasting timber species for recladding a house?
ThermoWood and Shou Sugi Ban (charred) cladding are the longest-lasting options, both rated for 30–50 years with minimal maintenance. Siberian larch naturally lasts 20–30+ years untreated as it silvers to a dignified grey.
If longevity is paramount and you want zero maintenance, charred SSB cladding is the gold standard — the carbonised layer repels moisture, insects and UV without any oils or preservatives. For those who want a natural wood colour with long life, ThermoWood's Class 1 durability rating outperforms any untreated species available in the UK.
What is the best timber cladding profile for a house reclad?
Shadow gap (open joint) and tongue-and-groove profiles are the most popular for house recladding. Shadow gap gives a contemporary, architect-specified look with clean reveals between boards. Tongue-and-groove provides a more traditional, fully enclosed board face. Feather-edge is ideal for rural and cottage styles.
The choice depends on the house's architectural language — a Victorian terrace suits feather-edge or shiplap; a 1960s box extension looks best in vertical shadow gap; a barn conversion typically goes for open-joint with charred timber. Our team can advise on what works best for your elevation — get in touch.
How long does it take to reclad a house in the UK?
A typical semi-detached front elevation takes 3–5 days for a two-person crew. A full semi-detached house (all four elevations) takes 1–2 weeks. A detached house recladding project typically takes 2–4 weeks including scaffolding erection, membrane fitting, battening and board fixing.
Complexity significantly extends timescales: multiple window reveals, bespoke corner trims, dormer windows, complex rooflines and curved walls all add days. Large detached or farmhouse projects with 260+ m² of cladding can run to 5–6 weeks. Materials lead time (typically 5–10 working days from order) should be factored into your project programme.
Ready to Reclad Your House?
Browse our full range of timber cladding species and profiles — all held in UK stock with typical dispatch in 5–10 working days. Or get a free quote from our installation team.